Pechuga
A ceremonial style of mezcal where a piece of meat (traditionally raw chicken or turkey breast), plus seasonal fruits, nuts, and spices, is suspended in the still during the final distillation pass.
A pechuga mezcal is the ceremonial style in which a piece of meat, traditionally raw chicken or turkey breast (pechuga is Spanish for "breast"), plus a basket of seasonal fruits, nuts, and spices is suspended inside the still during the final, third distillation pass. As the vapor rises through the assembled ingredients, it picks up subtle savory, fruit, and spice compounds before recondensing. The meat itself contributes very little measurable flavor (most trained palates cannot identify it blind), but it carries fat and protein into the vapor stream that round and soften the spirit's mouthfeel.
The seasonal pantry is what gives each pechuga its character. Classical Oaxacan recipes call for tropical fruit (pineapple, banana, mamey, plantain), stone fruit (apple, quince), citrus, almonds and other nuts, cinnamon, clove, allspice, and rice. Each maestro mezcalero has a family recipe, and many pechugas are made only at specific moments in the year. The style is associated with weddings, baptisms, Día de Muertos, and other ceremonial occasions, and a producer's pechuga is often the most expensive and most personal mezcal in the lineup.
NOM-070-SCFI-2016A regulatory-standard NOM is a federal Mexican product norm. Unlike facility NOMs (4-digit identifiers of specific distilleries), a standard NOM defines the rules for an entire category of product: which raw materials are permitted, where the product may be made, how it must be processed, and how the bottle must be labeled. Standard NOMs are written as "NOM-XXX-SCFI-YYYY" where XXX is the standard number and YYYY is the year. NOM-070-SCFI-2016 (Mezcal). The official Mexican standard for mezcal production. Defines three production tiers (Mezcal Industrial, Mezcal Artesanal, Mezcal Ancestral) with specific equipment and method requirements for each, lists the permitted agave species and states, and governs labeling. Enforced by the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal (CRM). permits pechuga under the Artesanal and Ancestral classes; pechuga production by definition uses a copper or clay alembic still and a multi-day pit cook, so the industrial Mezcal class is not where pechugas land. The distillation chapter walks the three-pass distillation chemistry that pechuga sits at the end of, and the culture chapter covers the ceremonial-mezcal tradition in broader context.
Sources
- NOM-070-SCFI-2016. Bebidas alcohólicas, Mezcal, Especificaciones.
- Bowen, S. Divided Spirits: Tequila, Mezcal, and the Politics of Production. University of California Press (2015).
- Mezcalistas. Pechuga: the ceremonial mezcal style.